After a dusty and winding drive over the hills from Aix-en-Provence last Friday we arrived at the peaceful and bucolic commune of Artigues where we had the pleasure of spending the day with Max at Domaine de la Mongestine.
Spreading for 150 hectares along a largely untouched and densely forested hillside, the domaine feels more like a nature reserve with only 40 hectares planted with vines - plus a dozen or so olive trees - all of which are grown according to biodynamics.
After pausing briefly to admire Max's 1990s Fiat tractor, we take a stroll up through the various plots: Pinot Noir and Roussanne planted at the cooler top sites where the altitude reaches 450m, and progressively down through the Rolle, Sauvignon, Grenache and finally Merlot drinking up the sun on the valley floor.
Stopping among the uniformly tight and healthy grape bunches, Max points out the veraison underway, the stage of the ripening period in which the red varieties rapidly change colour from green to red, a signal to the winemaker that harvest is only about a month away.
Entering the cool respite of the winery, Max shows us the 500 litre vat of freshly prepared bouse de vache, the essential biodynamic cow dung preparation applied to the soil to promote microbial activity and enhance the nutrients available to the vines. An experimental and forward-thinking domaine, among the vessels used for wine are concrete tanks built into the hillside structure as well as concrete eggs, clay amphora and more traditional oak barrels sourced from tonneliers in both Burgundy and Bordeaux.
With all apart from the oak empty in anticipation of the new vintage, we taste through the barrels of the 2024 Pinot Noir soon to be blended and bottled, an instructive experience that highlights the significant variation that occurs with each barrel's micro-vinification and will lend complexity to the final wine.
On to a tasting of all the current vintages in bottle; all on fine form but the top white Georgette (a maceration of Vermentino), Le Mongestine Roussanne and Bob Singlar Rouge are truly exceptional.
The early afternoon heat of the Provençal sun in full force by now, we grab a few bottles and take refuge in the shade at the top of the domaine where Max had prepared a picnic of local delicacies including pissaladière, goat's cheese and charcuterie. The boar saucisson particularly memorable accompanied by Max’s stories of the giant local boar (the Singlar in old Provençal from which the Bob Singlar range takes its name) that regularly frequent the domaine - apparently harmless unless you’re unfortunate enough the find yourself between mum and her babies.
Appetite sated but no sign of the heat abating, we depart for a dip in the stunning nearby Gorges du Verdon, full of gratitude to Max for an unforgettable visit.
The wines:
Bob Singlar Bulles (£19.50: The Bob Singlar Bulles is 100% Syrah made in the traditional Champagne method but without sulphur or dosage. Lively and generous with balsamic strawberry, spice and citrus aromas backed up by savoury, toasty hints.
Bob Singlar Rouge (£19.50): The Bob Singlar red is a crunchy berry fruit bomb made from Pinot Noir, Marselan, Merlot and Roussanne. Lively and vibrant with generous aromas and flavours of raspberry, red cherry, spice and a savoury finish. A real delight served slightly chilled.
Bob Singlar Orange (£20): The Bob Singlar orange is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Clairette fermented on skins in concrete eggs. An intense, rewarding orange with lightly oxidative quince and apple aromas overlaid with savoury spice and chalky minerals.
Bob Singlar Rosé (£19.50): The Bob Singlar rosé is an unfiltered, organic blend of Merlot and Rolle (Vermentino) with an enticing hazy coral appearance and aromas of pink grapefruit, plum and herbs with a zip of cranberry acidity.
Bob Singlar Blanc (£20): The Bob Singlar white is a 50-50 blend of Roussanne and Rolle (Vermentino) with around 3 weeks of skin contact for the Roussanne. Vivid and bright with mouth-watering aromas of lemon zest, pear, acacia flowers and Provencal herbs.
Le Mongestine Pinot Noir (£21): 100% Pinot Noir, de-stemmed and macerated for 3 weeks before ageing for 8 months in barrel. An elegant, silky and structured wine, showing notes of morello cherries and red fruits mixed with floral aromas.
Georgette (£32): Georgette is Domaine de la Mongestine's top white cuvée made from 100% Rolle (Vermentino) fermented on skins for 2 weeks before ageing in old oak barrels and bottling without fining, filtration or sulphur. A powerful, textured wine with rich stone and pear fruit, exotic spice and tremendous length.