The phrase “natural wine legend” is often overused, but it truly applies to Jean-Pierre Robinot. Founder of Paris’s iconic wine bar L’Ange Vin and the influential journal Le Rouge et le Blanc, he now crafts remarkable wines from Jasnières and the Coteaux-du-Loir. Farming is biodynamic and élevage is long and patient.

Bistrologie 2023 is 100% Chenin Blanc from forty-year-old vines, pressed directly to barrel and aged for around fifteen months on lees. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without added sulphur, it shows a striking mineral backbone, green apple acidity, and Robinot’s hallmark oxidative notes of almond skin, bruised apple and spice. Lively and precise, it makes a formidable apéritif and pairs beautifully with oysters or white meats.