Alice and Olivier De Moor are winemakers with a cult status in France, growing natural Chardonnay and Aligoté in Chablis that has attained something of a mythical status.

This is their Bourgogne Chitry, a small village about 12km south-west of Chablis itself where the De Moors have two small parcels of Chardonnay planted in the 1990s. Fermented in old oak and aged on the lees for around a year, it's packed with ripe citrus - grapefruit and lemon - with a savoury richness that hints at hazelnuts and toast.