Angers born Thomas Batardière began his career in wine in 2008, first working as a sommelier before gaining experience in winemaking with the famed Saumur estate Château Yvonne. He set up on his own in 2012 with 2 hectares of Chenin vines in Rablay-sur-Layon in 2012 where he neighbours perhaps the most famous Chenin Blanc producer of all, Richard Leroy.

From top to bottom the emblematic Montbenault covers roughly 40 hectares. In 2012 Thomas bought .25 of a hectare of fallow land in the heart of the coteau and planted with top quality sélections massales from legendary domaines Huet and Clos Naudin. As with the neighbouring Clos des Cocus parcel, there's hardly any topsoil, the main difference here is the high concentration of igneous, volcanic rock; a soil yielding concentrated grapes of the finest quality, savoury and packed with minerals – think Richard Leroy. So much drive and character for such young vines, the reduction blows off quickly and reveals umami backbone, class and energy.