As the third largest producer of wine in Europe and a tradition of winemaking going back to 1100BC, Spain is hardly an unknown entity when it comes to the world of wine. Yet in recent years there's been a palpable buzz around Spanish wine with a new wave of producers seeking to make higher quality, authentic and terroir driven interpretations of their vines and land. Central to this has been the embrace of organic (and biodynamic) viticulture, with roughly 18% of Spain's total vineyards now cultivated this way - increasing over 10% year on year - and whole appellations like the Cava DO on track to be 100% by the end of 2025 - a world first.
Fascinated by these developments and keen to find out more, we set off on a sourcing trip in late July to two of the epicentres of this organic miracle, Requena and Castilla La Mancha. Visiting and tasting with a number of the estates at the vanguard of this exciting new scene, what we found was even better than we hoped for - stunning vineyards of beautiful old vines teeming with plant and insect life, highly skilled and passionate winemakers, and delicately crafted wines that put the grape variety and place of origin front and centre.
Returning to London we wasted no time in getting our orders in, and we're thrilled to have just taken delivery from three of the outstanding organic producers we met on our trip.
Domino de Punctum (Castilla La Mancha)
Dominio de Punctum is a family owned winery located at 800m above sea-level in the ancient Spanish wine producing region of Castilla La Mancha. From the very start in 2005, viticulture has been organic and biodynamic with the grapes grown in clay-limestone soils entirely without chemicals and according the lunar calendar. We visited and tasted with Ruth, Cristina and Jesús - the three siblings who together run the estate - and were bowled over by the quality and value on offer across the 20+ cuvées we tasted, a true testament to the family's belief that great wines are made by healthy, living soils where biodiversity is allowed to thrive.
Lanzado Pét Nat Rosado (£18): This is the beautiful organic and biodynamic pét nat packed with strawberries, raspberries and gentle spice. With fine bubbles and toast, this is a pleasantly refined pét nat style sparkling wine.
Nortesur Chardonnay (£14): This is a gorgeous organic and biodynamic Chardonnay brimming with ripe tropical fruit flavours of passion fruit and melon and a lovely savoury creaminess from a light touch of oak.
Nortesur Cabernet Sauvignon (£14.50): This is a soft, medium-bodied organic and biodynamic Cabernet Sauvignon with classic aromas of blackcurrant leaf, eucalyptus and plum. Generous and balanced on the palate with ripe fruit and a touch of spice.
Equilibrio (Jumilla)
Equilibrio is an organic estate working with old bush vines in the famed sand and gravel soils of Jumilla in Spain's sun-drenched south-east region of Murcia. Annual sunshine here exceed 3,000 hours and with very little rain, this a harsh, extreme place to grown grapes with the vines forced to penetrate deep into the earth's surface in search of sustenance. Thankfully Equilibrio have persevered and the results are vivid and elegant wines with tremendous old vine character and concentration.
Monastrell Selección (£21): This is the top class Monastrell made from the estate's oldest bush vines. Rich and concentrated with sweet dark berry fruit, and hints of cocoa and coffee from ageing in oak barrels.
Sauvignon Blanc (£16.50): From vines grown at 600m altitude, the Sauvignon Blanc possesses a bright and precise nose of lime zest, cut grass, fennel and elderflower. Fine and textured on the palate with great freshness and a floral lift.
Bodegas Sierra Norte (Utiel-Requena)
Bodegas Sierra Norte is an organic estate in Utiel-Requena, about an hour's drive west of Valencia. Here in Spain's hot and arid interior the native Bobal grape thrives alongside Syrah, Macabeo and other heat loving varieties in limestone soils. We visited the vineyards with Andrea of Sierra Norte who explained to us that their Bobal vines are located in the highest area of the Utiel-Requena region, where temperature swings of over 20 degrees between day and night allow for a slow and balanced ripening process that concentrates flavour and acidity. This was clearly evident not just in the Bobal but across the board when we sat down to taste, with wines of great poise and generous fruit.
Heraclio Bobal Syrah (£17.50): The Heraclio de Lorenzo red is Bobal with a touch of Syrah. Deep and spicy with vivid cherry, leather and menthol flavours and a smooth and elegant texture thanks to judicious use of oak.
Heraclio Macabeo Albariño (£17.50): This is a refined and elegant organic blend of Macabeo and Albariño with crystalline citrus fruit and chalky limestone minerality. Long and taut on the palate with vigorous acidity and a sapid, saline finish.